კულინარია

რით იკვებებოდნენ ძველ საქართველოში?

რას ჭამდნენ ძველი ქართველები, რა ჰქონდათ სადილად თუ ვახშმად, რას თესავდნენ და რას აცხობდნენ? როგორც ექსპერტები ამბობენ, იმ პროდუქტების დიდი ნაწილი, რომელიც ახლა ყოველდღიურ რაციონში შედის, სულ რაღაც საუკუნის წინ არც იშოვებოდა. მაშ, როგორი იყო ერთი ჩვეულებრივი ადამიანის მენიუ შუა საუკუნეებამდე?

ხორბალი და ყურძენი საქართველოში რომ უხსოვარი დროიდან მოდის, ეს საზოგადოდ ცნობილი ფაქტია, თუმცა ამას ვერ ვიტყვით სოფლის მეურნეობის ბევრ სხვა პროდუქტზე. ის მცენარეები, რომლებიც დღეს ნებისმიერ ბაზარში იყიდება, ქართულ რეალობას ნელ-ნელა, საუკუნოვანი ინტერვალებით ემატებოდა.

აგრარული უნივერსიტეტის საცდელი ბაზების ხელმძღვანელი ვალერი ამირანაშვილი ამბობს, რომ კარტოფილის მოყვანა საქართველოში მხოლოდ 1818-1819 წლებში დაიწყეს, ისიც არა ქართველებმა, არამედ თბილისის მახლობლად მცხოვრებმა რუსებმა და გერმანელებმა. შემდეგ კარტოფილი გორსა და ახალციხეში გავრცელდა. მე-18 საუკუნის მორე ნახევარში შემოვიდა პომიდორიც, რომელსაც თავიდან ტომატოს ეძახდნენ.

„კიტრი ძველია, მისი სამშობლო არის ინდოეთი და, დაახლოებით, ექვსიათასწლოვანი ისტორია აქვს, თუმცა მისი საქართველოში შემოსვლის თარიღი არ ფიქსირდება“.

მისივე თქმით, დაახლოებით, მე-16 საუკუნიდან შემოდის სიმინდი, ლობიო…

„ჩვენ ვიცით, რომ დასავლეთ საქართველოში სიმინდის შემოსვლამდე ღომს და მჭადს აკეთებდნენ მცენარისგან, რომლის სახელია ღომი. თუმცაღა, ღომიც მე-15 საუკუნეში შემოვიდა საქართველოში, ანუ მანამდე მჭადი არ გვქონდა. მოკლედ, გამოდის, რომ შუა საუკუნეებამდე ქართველები ძირითადად იკვებებოდნენ ხორცპროდუქტებით, რძის პროდუქტებით და მხალეულით“.

ყოველ სახლში არსებობდა ე. წ. საცივე კუთხე. ეს კუთხე ისე იყო მისადაგებული ლანდშაფტს და გარემო პირობებს, რომ იქ მზის სხივი ვერასდროს აღწევდა და მუდამ სიცივე და სიგრილე იყო. ასეთ პირობებში ხორცი და სხვა პროდუქტები კარგად ინახებოდა…

ეთნოლოგი როზეტა გუჯეჯიანი ამბობს, რომ საქართველოში ძალიან იყო განვითარებული მემინდვრეობა. მოჰყავდათ ჭვავი, შვრია, ფეტვი, ოსპი, ბარდა და მრავალნაირი ადგილობრივი ჯიშის ხორბალი. საგანგებოდ მთის ხორბალიც გამოიყვანეს, რომ მარხვის პერიოდში მაღალმთიან რაიონებში საკვები ჰქონოდათ. მისივე თქმით, ფეტვი საკმაოდ ფართოდ იყო გავრცელებული, განსაკუთრებით, დასავლეთ საქართველოში. მისგან კვერებს აცხობდნენ, ხშირად ყველითაც. მოგვიანებით ლობიომ ოსპი და ბარდა ჩაანაცვლა, სიმინდმა კი – ფეტვი და ღომის ღომი, რადგან ეს უკანასკნელი რთული მოსაყვანი იყო.

„ხორცს როგორ ინახავდნენ ჩვენი წინაპრები? ყოველ სახლში არსებობდა ე. წ. საცივე კუთხე. ეს კუთხე ისე იყო მისადაგებული ლანდშაფტს და გარემო პირობებს, რომ იქ მზის სხივი ვერასდროს აღწევდა და მუდამ სიცივე და სიგრილე იყო. ასეთ პირობებში ხორცი და სხვა პროდუქტები კარგად ინახებოდა. გარდა ამისა, არსებობდა მიწაში დიდი ორმოს ამოთხრის, ორმოს მოპირკეთებისა და იქ სხვადასხვა მცენარეულობის შენახვის ტრადიციაც“.

მსგავსი საცავები ჰქონდა ციხეებსაც, სადაც მოსახლეობა ომიანობის დროს იმალებოდა. როზეტა გუჯეჯიანი ამბობს, რომ შემოსევების დროს მტერი ხშირად მინდვრებს წვავდა და ამ დროს მოსახლეობას ტყის ნობათით გაჰქონდა თავი, თუმცა ხანდახან სამეფო სალაროებიც იხსნებოდა, რომ ხალხისთვის საკვები შეეძინათ. განსაკუთრებული იყო ომში მიმავალი მამაკაცის საგზალიც.

როზეტა გუჯეჯიანი

როზეტა გუჯეჯიანი

„ასეთ შემთხვევაში გამოიყენებოდა ისეთი პროდუქტები, რომელიც დროში გამძლე იყო და თან აბგაში ან ხურჯინში მცირე ადგილს იკავებდა – მაგალითად, ჩურჩხელა, ფეტვის შეჭამანდი, რომელსაც წყალში გახსნიდნენ და ერთგვარ სუპის მსგავს მასას მიიღებდნენ. ასევე ძალიან ხშირად მიჰქონდათ წაბლი, ცერცვი. იგივე მიჰქონდათ ნადირობის დროსაც“, – ამბობს როზეტა გუჯეჯიანი.

მწერალმა და ლინგვისტმა დიანა ანფიმიადმა ქართულ კულინარიაზე ერთი წიგნი უკვე დაწერა. დიანა ანფიმიადის თქმით, ძველად საქართველოში ყველაზე მეტად ფხალეული და სხვადასხვა შეჭამანდები, წვნიანები იყო გავრცელებული. ასევე, ჯერ კიდევ კოლხეთში აკეთებდნენ თაფლითა და ნიგვზით შეზავებულ ხორბალს, ანუ წანდილს.

„ძველი კოლხეთის თემაზე ჩატარებული კვლევების შედეგით თუ ვიმსჯელებთ, ნიგვზით და თხილით კერძების შენელება, რაც დღეს ერთ-ერთი ძირითადი ხაზია, არის მაშინდელი“.

დიანა ანფიმიადი დიალექტურ კორპუსში მუშაობს, რომელიც წლებია სხვადასხვა კუთხეებში მცხოვრები ადამიანების ამბებს იწერს. ისინი ხშირად ლაპარაკობენ სხვადასხვა კერძებზე და მათ შორის ისეთებზეც, რომლებიც უკვე დავიწყებულია:

„ზეპირ ისტორიებში და დიალექტურ ტექსტებში ძალიან დიდი მრავალფეროვნებაა ფხალეულობის: ნაცარქათამა, ჭინჭარი, მხალი ბაია, ია… ისეთ დასკვნამდე მიდიხარ, რომ, ფაქტობრივად, რაც კი მოდის ჩვენთან, ყველაფერი იჭმევა“.

დიანა ანფიმიადი

დიანა ანფიმიადი

რა თქმა უნდა, კვებითი რაციონი განსხვავებული იყო სხვადასხვა სოციალური ფენისთვის. პლატონ იოსელიანი „გიორგი მეცამეტის ცხოვრებაში“ წერს, რომ მეფეს უცხვებოდა ხუთი რიგი პური: მურასა, საგარეჯო, შოთი, პირგაჭრილი პური და კაკალა პური…

„რა ქება ვთქვა იმ საჭმელებისა. მართალია, ბლამანჟები არ იყო, მაგრამ ჩინებულად მასალებით და გემრიელად გაკეთებული იყო. და არ შეიძლებოდა იმათი სადილი შემწვარი ხბო არ ყოფილიყო. ის ხბოც განგებ გასუქებული უნდა ყოფილიყო. გააგრძელებდა სადილს და რომ არ გაციებულიყო, ყველას ლავაში ეფარა. მერე ლავაშქვეშ შეჰყოფდა ხელსა და ყველა საჭმლიდგან თითო ან ორს ლუკმას აიღებდა და ვინც სუფრაზედ დარბაისელნი უსხდნენ, თითო-თითოდ უბოძებდა, ვისაც უფრო სწყალობდა“.

ჟან შარდენი კი სამეფო ლხინის აღწერისას ყველაზე მეტად ხორცეულობას ახსენებს, მათ შორის – ნანადირევსაც. ასევე ამბობს, რომ შემოიტანეს სამნაირი პური, ყველა ჯურის ფლავი, სამარხვო და სახსნილო კერძებიო. შარდენი განსაკუთრებით იმან გააკვირვა, რომ სუფრასთან მსხდომი 150 კაცი არ ხმაურობდა და თან ძალიან ბევრს სვამდა.

„მე რომ დამელია იმდენი, რამდენიც ჩემს გვერდით მჯდომმა სვა, იქვე მოვკვდებოდი, მაგრამ მეფემ ხათრი გაგვიწია და უბრძანა, ჩვენთვის არ დაელევინებინათ სადღეგრძელოები“, – წერს შარდენი.

მოგეხსენებათ, კოლხეთის დაბლობი ჭაობიანი ტერიტორია იყო, აქ არსებობდა მალარიის საფრთხე და მწარე წიწაკის გამოყენებით სწორედ ამ მალარიას ეწინააღმდეგებოდნენ ჩვენი წინაპრები…

როზეტა გუჯეჯიანი ამბობს, რომ ქართული დესერტი, ანუ ტკბილეული, ხშირად თაფლიანი ხილი ან სხვადასხვანაირი ქადები იყო. რაც შეეხება მარილს, ის აღზევანიდან მოჰქონდათ და ძალიან ძვირი ღირდა. აღზევანი დღევანდელი ბაქოს მიმდებარე ტერიტორიაა. მგზავრობა რთული იყო, ამიტომ მარილის მოსატანად ჯგუფი უნდა წასულიყო. ხშირად მეურმეებს თავს ესხმოდნენ და ხოცავდნენ კიდეც. სწორედ აქედან მოდის გამოთქმა – „მარილზე გავიდა“. როზეტა გუჯეჯიანის თქმით, მარილი განსაკუთრებით ჭირდა მთაში და მთიულები ბარში ჩამოდიოდნენ, რათა სხვადასხვა სამუშაოში გასამრჯელოდ მარილი მიეღოთ.

განსაკუთრებული დატვირთვა ჰქონდა ცხარე სანელებლებსაც. მათი კერძებში დამატება დასავლეთ საქართველოში – განსაკუთრებით, სამეგრელოში – კოღოების გამო დაიწყეს.

„მოგეხსენებათ, კოლხეთის დაბლობი ჭაობიანი ტერიტორია იყო, აქ არსებობდა მალარიის საფრთხე და მწარე წიწაკის გამოყენებით სწორედ ამ მალარიას ეწინააღმდეგებოდნენ ჩვენი წინაპრები“, – ამბობს როზეტა გუჯეჯიანი.

სამაგიეროდ, ირკვევა, რომ მეგრელები კატეგორიულად არ ჭამდნენ მარწყვს. ეს არქანჯელო ლამბერტის აქვს ნათქვამი: „მარწყვი ისე ბლომად არის მინდვრებში, თითქოს წითელი ხალი დაუგიათო, მაგრამ არავინ არც კრეფს და არც ჭამს მას, რადგან ძლიერ ეზიზღებათ იგი. მეგრელებს სწამთ, რომ მარწყვს გველები ჭამენ და სუნავენ. მე კი ხშირად მიჭამია იგი და ჩემთვის არამცთუ ვნება არ მოუტანია, არამედ დიდი სიამოვნებაც მიგრძვნია“, – წერს არქანჯელო ლამბერტი თავის „სამეგრელოს აღწერაში“.

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